* Image is for illustrative purposes only.Tsuwano Castle
津和野城
Tsuwano Castle is a historic castle in Chūgoku dating from the Built in Einin 3 (1295); early modern renovation from Genna 3 (1617) onwards, whose lord was Yoshimi Yoriyuki / Sakasaki Naomori / Kamei clan.
Overview
About the Castle
Tsuwano Castle is a mountain castle built on Mt. Reiki (Reikeisan) at an elevation of 367 meters, overlooking the Tsuwano basin nestled deep in the Chūgoku Mountain Range in western Shimane Prefecture. This castle, said to have been begun by Yoshimi Yoriyuki in the third year of Einin (1295), underwent repeated renovations and expansions over the subsequent 300-plus years, finally being completed as a modern castle fortress after Sekigahara under Sakasaki Naomori and the Kamei clan. Positioned at a strategic point in western Iwami Province, Tsuwano Castle, controlling the traffic routes linking the Seto Inland Sea and the Japan Sea, became the constant object of contention from the medieval through early modern periods.
The Tragedy of Sakasaki Naomori
Sakasaki Naomori, who entered the domain after the Battle of Sekigahara, is said to have gained merit in the rescue of Princess Sen (Tokugawa Hidetada's daughter) at the fall of Osaka Castle, and was promised marriage to her as a reward. However, when Princess Sen was betrothed to Honda Tadatoki, Naomori flew into a rage and, in attempting to seize the wedding procession, was stripped of his domain and driven to suicide. This "Princess Sen Incident" became widely known as one of the greatest scandals of the early Edo period, inscribing a tumultuous page in Tsuwano Castle's history. After Naomori, Kamei Masanori entered the domain, and thereafter the Kamei clan governed Tsuwano Domain generation after generation until the Meiji Restoration.
The Kamei Clan and Tsuwano Culture
The Kamei clan was a samurai house that participated in Toyotomi Hideyoshi's invasion of Korea (the Bunroku Campaign), and throughout the subsequent Edo period made significant contributions to the cultural development of Tsuwano Domain. In particular, the seventh domain lord Kamei Norinori devoted himself to enriching the domain school Yōrōkan, which produced the Confucian scholar Nishi Amane (also called the "Saint of Tsuwano"), and cultivated Tsuwano into one of the foremost centers of learning in the San'in region. The late-Edo thinker Nishi Amane and Mori Ōgai were natives of Tsuwano, and the town is known as the birthplace of these two intellectuals who made great contributions to Japan's modernization. Mori Ōgai was active as a military physician and celebrated author, and his refined literary world is deeply rooted in the nature and history of Tsuwano.
The "Little Kyoto of San'in"
Tsuwano is nationally known as the "Little Kyoto of San'in," a castle town of beautiful scenery. In the clear stream of the Tsuwano River flowing through the castle town swim koi, and the landscape where samurai residences, merchant houses, and churches (the Otome Pass Maria Chapel) line the white-walled and stone-paved streets forms a rare historical landscape that speaks to the layering of ages. The mountains and castle ruins seen from Tsuwano Bridge, the spring rice paddies blooming with canola flowers, and the autumn maples and mist enveloping the mountain castle create landscapes for each season that are deeply etched in the hearts of many travelers. In particular, in spring, approximately 400 cherry blossoms blooming on the eastern slope of Mt. Reiki where the Mt. Reiki Denno-Baba remains are located are known as a spectacular view of mountain castle and cherry blossoms.
The Tenshu and Ruins of Mt. Reiki
At present, only stone walls and stone steps remain on the main citadel site of Tsuwano Castle, but the magnificent rustic stone masonry (nozura-zumi) built up on the steep mountainside captivates castle enthusiasts as a ruin that has attained the artistic heights of castle-fortification stonework. A lift enables ascent to the main citadel, and the view of the Tsuwano basin from the mountaintop imparts profound emotion to all who visit. A stroll through the castle town of Tsuwano spreading at the foot of the castle mountain provides a concentrated experience of the quintessence of Japan's castle-town culture, offering a rich journey where sword culture, samurai spirit, and Edo-period culture are unified as one.
Connection to Swords
The connection between Tsuwano Castle and sword culture is interwoven multiple times throughout this castle's complex history. As the castle's lords changed from the Yoshimi to Sakasaki to Kamei clans, the sword cultures that each military commander brought accumulated in the history of this mountain castle. Sakasaki Naomori was a fierce warrior born into the Ukita clan who originally served Ukita Hideiie under Toyotomi Hideyoshi's rule, but at the Battle of Sekigahara he broke with his lord Hideiie (Western Army) and fought alongside the Eastern Army (Tokugawa faction), and was granted Tsuwano as reward for his military exploits. Naomori's intense temperament was reflected in the swords he is said to have favored, and the martial character of a commander who preferred powerful blades exerted a strong influence on the swordsmiths of Iwami and Izumo. The Kamei clan governed Tsuwano for a long time, and as successive lords encouraged learning and culture, swords came to be valued as objects of cultural aesthetics. Particularly from the mid-Edo period onward, sword art became an essential cultural accomplishment for upper-ranking samurai of Tsuwano Domain, alongside the tea ceremony, calligraphy, and poetry. The swords cherished by generations of Tsuwano Domain samurai are preserved in two types: those made by local swordsmiths and those commissioned from master smiths of Kyoto and Osaka. San'in swordsmiths were active primarily in Izumo and Iwami, and against the backdrop of high-quality iron sand from this region, they formed a distinctive artistic style. Izumo tamahagane was blessed with high-quality iron sand called "Izumo iron," and the beauty of the clear jigane that this material produced became a major characteristic of swords from Izumo and Iwami. Mori Ōgai, while contributing to Meiji modernization as a military physician, continued to express a deep spiritual interest in bushido and swords in his literary works. The fusion of warrior spirit and literary intellect that the land of Tsuwano nurtured represents most purely in Japanese culture the dual nature of the sword—its practical utility as a weapon and its beauty as art. Standing at the Tsuwano Castle ruins and glimpsing the stone ramparts emerging from the mist of the steep mountain, the experience of sensing the thoughts toward their swords of the warriors who lived in this castle becomes an experience that deepens understanding of the world of Japanese swords from its roots.
Highlights
- Stone walls on steep mountainside (exceptional dry-stone masonry)
- Panoramic view of Tsuwano basin from the honmaru (accessible by ropeway)
- Castle town stone-paved streets with koi-filled waterways
- Mori Ōgai Memorial Museum (famous writer and bushidō advocate from Tsuwano)
- Otome-tōge Maria Cathedral (memorial to Edo-era Christian martyrs)
- Spring cherry blossoms and SL Yamaguchi steam locomotive
* Opening hours and admission fees are subject to change. Please check the official website before visiting.