Overview

About the Castle

Fukuyama Castle is an early modern castle built by Mizuno Katsunari, a cousin of Tokugawa Ieyasu, in Genwa 8 (1622), and is known nationwide as the castle closest to a Shinkansen station platform. Behind its construction lay the shogunate's strategic intention to prepare against western outside daimyō (particularly the Mōri family), and it was built with the shogunate's full financial and technical support. As a result, the castle was among the largest in western Japan, featuring a five-tiered, six-story main tower and numerous other turrets and gates of imposing scale. Mizuno Katsunari, from his youth, wandered widely and participated in many major battles including the Battle of Nagakute, the Battle of Sekigahara, and the Siege of Osaka, earning renown as a fierce veteran commander with the epithet "Oni Hyūga."

History of Construction

The contrast between Katsunari's tumultuous first half of life and his peaceful second half as lord of Fukuyama Domain, during which he governed with benevolence, symbolizes the transition from the Age of Warring States to an era of peace. Marking its 400th anniversary in Reiwa 4 (2022), the main tower underwent a complete renovation. The iron-plated north face is a rare defensive structure nationwide, designed to prepare against attacks from the north—that is, attacks from western daimyō. The restored jet-black iron-plated north face vividly recreates the castle's original appearance and garnered much attention. The Fushimi Turret and Sujigane Gate are precious surviving structures (Important Cultural Properties) said to have been relocated from Fushimi Castle, and as remnants of Fushimi Castle built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, they are of national importance.

Connection to Swords

Located in Bingo Province, Fukuyama Castle stands between two major sword-producing centers—Bizen Osafune and Bitchū Matsuyama—making it a crucial waypoint for a journey through sword culture. The castle's proximity to the Shinkansen, from which the main tower is visible through the train window, makes it ideal for a castle stop during travel, and it stands as an unparalleled base for touring sword-related sites in Bizen, Bitchū, and Bingo. The castle grounds contain approximately 500 cherry trees, and in spring the entire castle is enveloped in blossoms. Fukuyama is also home to Tomo-no-Ura, a historic port town among the most renowned on the Seto Inland Sea, and the picturesque scenery from this harbor—praised in the Man'yōshū and overlooking the islands of the Seto Inland Sea—has long captivated travelers.

Tourism and Experience

By visiting Tomo-no-Ura, also known as the site of Sakamoto Ryōma's "Iroha-maru Incident," alongside Fukuyama Castle, one can deepen one's appreciation of Bingo's history. With the Reiwa-era renovation, Fukuyama Castle has made strides toward accessibility, and an environment has been created where all people can easily engage with history. The ease of access—being able to ascend the castle immediately upon alighting from the Shinkansen—is a major attraction that makes it easy to visit even on a busy itinerary.

Connection to Swords

Bingo Province, where Fukuyama Castle stands, was a major sword-producing region centered on the Mihara smithing group. The Mihara smiths, with Masaie as their founder, maintained active production throughout the Muromachi era through many craftsmen including Masahiro and Masatoshi. The characteristic style of Mihara blades lies in their straight-blade workmanship influenced by the Yamato tradition, combined with sturdy, practical construction that prioritized functionality above all. In contrast to the ornate beauty of Bizen blades, Mihara blades possessed a subdued yet powerful aesthetic appeal, earning the trust and preference of warriors preparing for actual combat. Beyond the Mihara smiths, Bingo Province also had sword-makers in Onomichi and Inoshima, with blades distributed widely through maritime trade across the Seto Inland Sea. Mizuno Katsunari, lord of Fukuyama Castle, bore the epithet "the Demon Hyūga" and was a fierce warrior who left his father's household in his youth to serve in campaigns across many lands. He participated in virtually all the major battles of the late Sengoku through early Edo periods: Nagakute, the Korean campaign, Sekigahara, and the Siege of Osaka. Through his extensive combat experience, Katsunari wielded countless swords, and his discerning eye for military equipment was said to be unrivaled in his era. The Abe clan, who later ruled Fukuyama as hereditary Tokugawa retainers and prominent daimyo who produced Senior Councillors and maintained close relations with the shogun, preserved and transmitted high-quality blades through successive generations, including gifts bestowed by the shogunate. Fukuyama Art Museum displays swords and works by Mihara smiths associated with Bingo Province, allowing visitors to appreciate the subdued beauty of Mihara blades, distinctly different from Bizen blades. A touring route beginning at Fukuyama Castle and continuing through Bizen Osafune and Bitchu Matsuyama offers the ultimate sword pilgrimage, experiencing three major sword-producing regions in a single journey. The subdued practical beauty of Mihara blades reflects the essential aesthetic sensibility of warriors who spurned ostentation—a quality offering striking contrast to the ornate splendor of Bizen blades. The historical fact that Mizuno Katsunari, once a demon on the battlefield, governed Fukuyama with virtue in his later years and was beloved by his people represents a rare instance of a warrior's transformation into a benevolent ruler—a duality that deepened his profound understanding of swords and arms.