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* Image is for illustrative purposes only.The tsuba, a core component of sword fittings, has different deterioration characteristics depending on its material, and each requires appropriate maintenance. The main materials are three types: iron, shakudo, and shibuichi, which may be combined with gold, silver, or various alloys.
Neglecting proper care leads to problems such as rust development in iron tsuba, damage to the blackened surface coating on shakudo tsuba, and progression of verdigris in shibuichi tsuba. All of these diminish the value of the pieces as artworks and increase restoration costs. Understanding the basics of maintenance is also a collector's responsibility.
The primary challenge with iron tsuba is preventing red rust (corrosion). The darkened "patina" or "black rust" found on old iron tsuba is a stable oxide layer formed on the surface, which itself functions as a protective layer. The problem is red rust (Fe₂O₃) that develops by breaking through this black rust layer.
Camellia oil is traditionally used for iron tsuba maintenance. A small amount of camellia oil is applied to cotton cloth and spread thinly and evenly to wipe the surface. Applying too much oil has the opposite effect by attracting dust, so the goal is to maintain a very thin oil film.
The storage environment should aim for 50-60% humidity, avoiding sudden temperature changes. Especially during the rainy season or high humidity environments in summer, aim for maintenance once a month. If rust develops, it can be carefully wiped away with cotton cloth, but deep red rust is strongly recommended to be entrusted to professional sword polishers or tsuba specialists. Attempting polishing as an amateur risks removing the patina and diminishing the value.
Shakudo is an alloy of copper with a few percent gold mixed in, and through sulfide treatment has a deep black surface (raven-black color). This blackened coating is the essence of the artistic value, and protecting it is the highest priority.
Oil use is nearly taboo in shakudo tsuba care. When camellia oil or mineral oil penetrates the coating, the uniformity of the black color is compromised and "spotting" can occur. The basic maintenance is simply dry wiping with soft cotton cloth. If fingerprint oil adheres, lightly wipe with a water-dampened cloth and then finish with dry wiping.
Shakudo is vulnerable to acidic environments. Direct contact with hand perspiration (weakly acidic) causes the coating to deteriorate, so avoid bare-handed handling during viewing and handle through white gloves or clean cotton cloth. Storage in paulownia wood boxes or boxes with washi paper dividers is ideal, avoiding direct contact with acidic paper (ordinary cardboard).
Shibuichi is an alloy of copper mixed with approximately one-quarter silver (in reality ranging about 20-60%, with the shade adjustable from black to silver-gray depending on the surface treatment method), characterized by a grayish silver-rat color. Since copper is the main component, verdigris (copper carbonate hydroxide, blue-green corrosion) readily develops in humid environments.
Forming a protective film with camellia oil is effective for shibuichi tsuba. By applying oil extremely thinly and dry wiping, water penetration can be suppressed. If verdigris develops, it may be possible to carefully remove it with the tip of a bamboo stick in the early stage when it is only on the surface, but forceful scraping damages the base metal, so for advanced verdigris, consult a metalworker first.
In shibuichi tsuba with gold or silver inlay of different materials, electrochemical corrosion (galvanic corrosion) of different metals may occur. If abnormal corrosion is visible around the inlay, professional consultation is advised.
Well-intentioned maintenance often damages the value of tsuba. Here are representative pitfalls to note.
When in doubt, "doing nothing" is often correct. The principle is to maintain current condition, and to entrust active treatment to professionals.
When acquiring a new tsuba, start by recording its condition. Examine the front and back in bright light, confirm the presence or absence of rust, verdigris, inlay lifting, and cracks, and record with photographs. Next, gently brush away any adhering dust with a soft brush, determine the material, and perform the aforementioned material-specific care lightly. If uncertain about material identification, it is safer to refrain from applying oil and perform only dry wiping. Recording initial condition makes it easier to notice changes during subsequent periodic inspections.
Here are important points common to tsuba storage regardless of material.
Storage should be indoors away from direct sunlight, and since ultraviolet light from fluorescent lamps is a long-term cause of discoloration, UV-protective cases are desirable. Storage in paulownia sword boxes or wrapped in washi paper serves the dual role of humidity control and shock absorption.
Establishing a habit of checking condition at seasonal transitions (March, June, September, December) is helpful for early detection of problems. Examine the tsuba under light to observe surface changes, and if abnormalities are found, perform maintenance or consult a professional.
Properly maintained tsuba can retain their beauty even after hundreds of years. The very time spent engaging with tsuba as a collector cultivates deep understanding of Japanese metalcraft culture.
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